“Inshallah” ( God Willing). That was South African musician – and newlyminted Grammy Award winner - Nomcebo Zikode’s response two years ago when I asked her if she is keen to visit Jerusalem. At the time, Jerusalema and the accompanying viral # JerusalemaDanceChallenge had reached the occupied city.

The song’s infectious beat conquered the world, spawning thousands of videos on social media. But it was one particular clip filmed in East Jerusalem that really grabbed Zikode’s attention - and heart.

The Palestinian version of the # JerusalemaDanceChallenge was performed by the AfroPalestinian community in East Jerusalem, whose roots go back to Nigeria, Chad, Senegal and Sudan.

It wasn’t only Jerusalema’s catchy beat that moved them - but Zikode’s isiZulu lyrics. Jerusalema’s hook “Jerusalema ikhaya lami” ( Jerusalem is my home) became a global anthem, but it was deeply personal for Palestinians and described their longing for peace and to be able to return to their homes and families. “It was really special seeing Jerusalema reach Jerusalem. It’s a place close to my heart,” says Zikode. She says that it was one of the first times that people were focusing on her lyrics. “I am always so grateful that my music connects with people on a deeper level.” In December, Zikode’s lyrics came to life when she found herself in Jerusalem. “I wrote Jerusalema, not knowing that one day I’ll actually be here,” said an ecstatic Zikode in early December as she touched down in the Occupied Palestinian Territories ( OPT) for a series of events and outreach programmes in the West Bank and Jerusalem. For Zikode, however, this was no ordinary tour. Faith and spirituality is central in Zikode’s music and personal life. She says that finding herself in Jerusalem – a city sacred to Christians; the place of Jesus’s crucifixion and resurrection, the birth place of Christianity itself, and the site of its first churches – has been overwhelming, emotional, but also spiritually rejuvenating.

Walking the Via Dolorosa or the “Way of the Cross” - the winding path taken by Jesus Christ to his crucifixion that is marked by fourteen stations of suffering - was particularly significant for the innovative gospel hit- maker as she reflected on her sometimes rocky road to music superstardom that’s been peppered with the highs of a Grammy Award and the lows of legal battles around royalties and copyright claims.

In Bethlehem, Zikode was excited to walk the streets that Mary and Joseph tread in search of accommodation ahead of the birth of Jesus Christ. Zikode also performed at the official Bethlehem Christmas tree lighting ceremony in Manger

Square – the birthplace of Jesus Christmas.

While Zikode absorbed the spiritual and religious significance of the Holy Land, her interactions with Palestinian musicians allowed her to appreciate the socio- political realities of the area.

As she navigated a maze of military checkpoints and criss- crossed occupied Palestine, the themes of displacement, refugees and a powerful longing for home loomed large in many of her engagements in the OPT. In the village of Iqrit in the northern Galilee, Zikode met Walaa Sbait and Ramzy Suleiman of the Palestinian band 47SOUL which combines traditional Palestinian music with electronic beats, hip- hop, reggae and dub.

Sbait’s grandparents and parents were ordered by the Israeli army to leave Iqrit when Israel was created in 1948. Most of the almost 500 inhabitants were transferred to a nearby village, taking only basic necessities, believing they would be returning two weeks later. Three years later, the village was demolished. Only the church and the cemetery remained. The village land was taken for Israeli state use; the villagers and their descendants forbidden from returning.

Sbait grew up listening to his parents reminisce about their lost land. “We all live in different villages and towns now, but Iqrit is the place we call home.” To add a Jerusalema spin on Sbait’s sentiments: Iqrit ikhaya lami.

For almost a decade, Sbait has been part of a movement by young Palestinians – grandchildren of Iqrit’s original residents - to reclaim the village. They’ve planted a vegetable garden amongst the rubble. Mass is held at the church once a month.

Sbait uses music to shine a light on the battle to return home. Both Sbait and Zikode appreciate music’s potential for greater purpose, and are keen to work together on future projects. Zikode is also hoping to collaborate with the Afro- Palestinian community in Jerusalem. Across occupied Palestine, Zikode has heard young Palestinians express a similar desire to live their everyday lives in peace - without soldiers or military checkpoints.

During a visit to Augusta Victoria Hospital in Jerusalem, Zikode listened in astonishment as children from the West Bank and Gaza Strip explained that they were there alone because their parents had been denied travel permits by the Israeli authorities to accompany them for treatment.

When Zikode came up with the lyrics for Jerusalema, she wanted God to take her to her own Jerusalem – a place where she could find the peace and contentment that she desperately needed.

Zikode says she now understands why the lyrics resonated so strongly with Palestinians. “This trip helped me appreciate my own lyrics even more” admits Zikode.